Monday, October 30, 2006

Arrivederci Roma

November 1st is a holiday in Rome, the day of All Saints, and most of the local stores and businesses are closed. The day is quiet and the air is crisp and cool. The afternoon shadows have already begun to lengthen because of the change of time, and as I lean over our terrazzo to view the scene, I can smell chestnuts roasting on the corners and a hint of woodsmoke. People are hurrying down the streets bundled in sweaters, coats and scarves. Fall has finally come to Rome. It is our last week here in the eternal city.

We resist the urge to see just one more church or museum, and instead take long walks through the neighborhoods, revisiting all of our favorite sights and the many small corners of the city that we have discovered in the past few months. We love the beauty of the light on the lovely pastel yellow, terracota and gray historic buildings, set against a blue sky that is like none other. We still feel the awe of entering the Pantheon, or sitting in front of the Palazzo Farnese at night, and the experience of catching our breath as we round the corner to some incredible view or new piece of architecture.

Every day we come across something new and fascinating that we haven't noticed before that continues to make the city alive and constantly engaging. A 16th century marble marker on the corner that notes an historic flood line, a small arched door that cuts through a building from the street with its own altar lit with votives, its light flickering on the solemn image of a early christian saint, a small piazza sitting in a timeless setting, ivy tumbling down its walls and one tiny table outside its corner cafe, and standing on the granite disc in the Piazza of St. Pietro that allows us, for just one moment, to see the columns perfectly aligned, making us wonder at the genius and brilliance of the architect, Bernini. Every day in this extraordinary city is truly extraordinary.

What is picturesque and charming for us is decidely wearing for the Romans. Rome is a 21st century city living in the shadows of a medieval-renaissance fabric miraculously intact, struggling everyday to meet the needs and demands of its modern citizens. Graffiti scars the landscape, while at the same time, there is a constant and ongoing cycle of restoration and preservation of historic monuments. The noise, traffic, pollution, and heat all affect daily life, as does the inconvienence of the random bus or taxi strike and inadequate transport to compensate. Added to it all is the inefficiency of a country that still tackles many tasks by hand, unsettling politics, and the changes in currency with the euro that has made daily life more dear.

Despite it all, the Romans continue on with the same indomitable spirit today as they have for over 2000 years. They have weathered plagues and sacks, dictators and emperors, the papacy, the Nazis and Berlusconi. Their view on life is cynical and jaundiced, and very much one day at a time. Nevertheless, they love their city and the drama and energy of everyday life. They work to stay connected with their families, clinging to the old ways of closing down business middays and Sundays, and taking their holidays in August, despite the demands and pressures of a global economy. This is a balance of daily life for Rome, the battle to modernize and yet still hold onto the beauty and tradition.

Looking back, what we have gained most is that sense of connection to something larger, a sense of history, a sense of place, that we haven't experienced before in America. Our friend Alan Epstein has said that everything that we know today, socially, culturally, politically, spiritually, has had its beginnings here, in this place,at one time or other. There is a sense of sadness, too, for all that has come before and is lost and forgotten, except for a fragment of ancient plaster, marker or tomb, its relief and detail worn smooth by time. We are just one small presence, moving through and becoming a tiny part of Rome's history at this one point in time.

We have become comfortable here, adjusting to the slower pace, taking the time this last week to indulge in long lunches, spending time with friends, drinking wine and coffee in the afternoon sun, and relishing in the roman tradition of chicciarari, the art of chit chat. We take the Luisi family our lemon tree from the terrazzo for their giardino at home, have a final dinner with the Epsteins, and give bottles of wine to our friends. Everyone exchanges hugs, and emails and addresses, and promises to keep in touch. Last night, Alessandro and the staff at Roscioli present us with a large, signed bottle of wine to take home as a remembrance. What a wonderful adventure we have had in Italy, in the opportunity to place ourselves in a new city, to look through the lens at another culture, and learn something more about ourselves. Time has gone too fast, but we have put down some shallow roots here in Roma. We will return.

Monday, October 02, 2006

Amici

I am reading a book on our terrazo in the warm afternoon when I feel his steady gaze upon my face. I am aware of his presence at the window from the apartment across the street, and I know that with his big, brown eyes, he is willing me to look up and notice him. There is a small movement of the curtain, as he edges closer to the sill. I stretch out the time, allowing the tension to build as I finish the last paragraph, before I lift my eyes and look directly into his. For a moment, we stare at each other. Then, he barks and wags his tail.

This is just one of our new amici in our daily life in Roma. I call him Cane Nero, because he is a scruffy, black mutt of an undetermined breed, and since we have never officially met, I don't know his true name. He lives in the apartment across the way, and has developed the habit of coming to the open window in the afternoons or evenings to check in and chat. Like every other Roman that lives in the city, he just wants to communicate.

Every morning, and most afternoons, we make a trip to our local bar for caffe, cornetti and somtimes spermuta ( fresh orange juice), or a cold beer or campari/soda. We go not only for sustinence, but for conversation and connection. The visits give us the chance to practice our meagre Italian, rehash the soccer game scores,and build a relationship with real Roman people. Each morning, as they set up our order, we discuss what we are going to do for the day or the weekend, and everyone joins in with suggestions and advice. Do we think the weather will hold? Then, maybe a trip to Tivoli or Ostia? Have we seen the Vatican and St. Peters (yes) or the Quirinale Palace (not yet). You are going to Umbria? Bella! Did you know it was St. Francis's feast day tommorrow?! When we leave, they shout out a lusty ciao raggazi, a domani!

Our neighborhood bar has been owned by the Luisi family for 40 years. This long ownership of a family business over many generations is typical of most Italian families. The building has no evident identification on the outside, except the "Tabacci/Snack Bar", but its official name is Antonio's, after the senior member of the Luisi clan. Antonio and his wife, Maria Grazie, are the genitori of Pietro, who works the bar, and keeps an eye on the general operation of things. To complicate matters, Pietro is married to woman also named Maria Grazia, and their 22 year-old son is named Antonio, after his grandfather. Maria Grazie, the younger, presides over the counter for lottery tickets, stamps, toys,and candy. Young Antonio, who wears tight t-shirts and stands around hoping for some notice from the young girls, waits on the tables outside, while Nonno Antonio floats about the bar, engaging in conversation, and when he can get it by his wife, winking at attractive women and kissing their hands. Maria Grazie, the Nonna, works the cassa. She is a large,Italian matron that sits in same place everyday like a monument made of stone, and gives everyone the occhioli, or evil eye. For many weeks, Jeff and I would see her everyday when we paid for our coffee or drinks, and she would give us no attention what-so-ever, and little response to our pathetic grazies. Jeff vowed he would win her over, and now recognizing us as regular patrons, she has taken just recently to giving us a trace of a small, grudging smile and a nod with our change.

We have also made good friends with our restaurant downstairs, Roscioli. Alessandro and Pierluigi are the second generation sons who are running the wine/cheese/salumeri and the forno across the street. This is our favorite "neighborhood" spot, especially late at night, since we basically exit our door, turn left, and enter the next one to get there. We have met almost all the staff and hear about their plans and aspirations, how hard they work, and what they would like for their future. Most young people in Italy would like to have more, and many travel and study outside of the country. They would love to be in Italy, but are frustrated by the bueracracy of getting anything accomplished.

Last week we were priviledged to be part of a special evening when one of the head waiters, Cristiano and his fidanzata Samantha, arrived late in the restaurant to announce the good news that she was pregnant. There were shouts of Auguri, Auguri, and everyone was talking, and laughing and crying at once. Bottles of champagne and wine began to break out, and we were swept up in the middle of the celebration lasting well into the night. It was a sweet moment when Cristiano grabbed Jeff in a hug and said " This is a great night, Mr. Jeff, the most wonderful night of my life."

Of course we cannot forget Diane and Alan Epstein, and their sons, who have been so kind and generous to us during our stay here. They have taken us in and shared their home, introduced us to interesting friends and their favorite restaurants and bars. We have had many good hours over long meals, discussing politics, family, Italian culture, the challenges and enticement of being Americans living in Rome and the character of the Roman people. Jeff has entered the world of AS Roma, and attended the soccer games at the Stadio Oliympia with Julian and Elliot, who serve as his mentors in the etiquette of football in Italy and the Roman transportation systems. Every week, Alan takes us out on our arranged history tour where we tromp the hills and streets of Rome and listen to the multiple stories and facets of history about this ancient eternal city.

The Piperno family who still reside in the neighborhood of the Ghetto where they have lived for generations. Bruno and Celeste are friends of clients of Jeff, and they have invited us to dinner at the end of the fast of Yom Kippur, at the family home of the matriarch, Miriam. We are part of a group of 25 family members, including grandparents, uncles and aunts, children and grandchildren. I know that Jeff is thinking of his Oma that died earlier this year, and being included as part of this special and sacred ritual gives us a sense of family tonight. We feel blessed with our new amici and the kindnesses they have extended to us to include us in their lives during this short time.