Amici

I am reading a book on our terrazo in the warm afternoon when I feel his steady gaze upon my face. I am aware of his presence at the window from the apartment across the street, and I know that with his big, brown eyes, he is willing me to look up and notice him. There is a small movement of the curtain, as he edges closer to the sill. I stretch out the time, allowing the tension to build as I finish the last paragraph, before I lift my eyes and look directly into his. For a moment, we stare at each other. Then, he barks and wags his tail.

This is just one of our new amici in our daily life in Roma. I call him Cane Nero, because he is a scruffy, black mutt of an undetermined breed, and since we have never officially met, I don't know his true name. He lives in the apartment across the way, and has developed the habit of coming to the open window in the afternoons or evenings to check in and chat. Like every other Roman that lives in the city, he just wants to communicate.

Every morning, and most afternoons, we make a trip to our local bar for caffe, cornetti and somtimes spermuta ( fresh orange juice), or a cold beer or campari/soda. We go not only for sustinence, but for conversation and connection. The visits give us the chance to practice our meagre Italian, rehash the soccer game scores,and build a relationship with real Roman people. Each morning, as they set up our order, we discuss what we are going to do for the day or the weekend, and everyone joins in with suggestions and advice. Do we think the weather will hold? Then, maybe a trip to Tivoli or Ostia? Have we seen the Vatican and St. Peters (yes) or the Quirinale Palace (not yet). You are going to Umbria? Bella! Did you know it was St. Francis's feast day tommorrow?! When we leave, they shout out a lusty ciao raggazi, a domani!

Our neighborhood bar has been owned by the Luisi family for 40 years. This long ownership of a family business over many generations is typical of most Italian families. The building has no evident identification on the outside, except the "Tabacci/Snack Bar", but its official name is Antonio's, after the senior member of the Luisi clan. Antonio and his wife, Maria Grazie, are the genitori of Pietro, who works the bar, and keeps an eye on the general operation of things. To complicate matters, Pietro is married to woman also named Maria Grazia, and their 22 year-old son is named Antonio, after his grandfather. Maria Grazie, the younger, presides over the counter for lottery tickets, stamps, toys,and candy. Young Antonio, who wears tight t-shirts and stands around hoping for some notice from the young girls, waits on the tables outside, while Nonno Antonio floats about the bar, engaging in conversation, and when he can get it by his wife, winking at attractive women and kissing their hands. Maria Grazie, the Nonna, works the cassa. She is a large,Italian matron that sits in same place everyday like a monument made of stone, and gives everyone the occhioli, or evil eye. For many weeks, Jeff and I would see her everyday when we paid for our coffee or drinks, and she would give us no attention what-so-ever, and little response to our pathetic grazies. Jeff vowed he would win her over, and now recognizing us as regular patrons, she has taken just recently to giving us a trace of a small, grudging smile and a nod with our change.

We have also made good friends with our restaurant downstairs, Roscioli. Alessandro and Pierluigi are the second generation sons who are running the wine/cheese/salumeri and the forno across the street. This is our favorite "neighborhood" spot, especially late at night, since we basically exit our door, turn left, and enter the next one to get there. We have met almost all the staff and hear about their plans and aspirations, how hard they work, and what they would like for their future. Most young people in Italy would like to have more, and many travel and study outside of the country. They would love to be in Italy, but are frustrated by the bueracracy of getting anything accomplished.

Last week we were priviledged to be part of a special evening when one of the head waiters, Cristiano and his fidanzata Samantha, arrived late in the restaurant to announce the good news that she was pregnant. There were shouts of Auguri, Auguri, and everyone was talking, and laughing and crying at once. Bottles of champagne and wine began to break out, and we were swept up in the middle of the celebration lasting well into the night. It was a sweet moment when Cristiano grabbed Jeff in a hug and said " This is a great night, Mr. Jeff, the most wonderful night of my life."

Of course we cannot forget Diane and Alan Epstein, and their sons, who have been so kind and generous to us during our stay here. They have taken us in and shared their home, introduced us to interesting friends and their favorite restaurants and bars. We have had many good hours over long meals, discussing politics, family, Italian culture, the challenges and enticement of being Americans living in Rome and the character of the Roman people. Jeff has entered the world of AS Roma, and attended the soccer games at the Stadio Oliympia with Julian and Elliot, who serve as his mentors in the etiquette of football in Italy and the Roman transportation systems. Every week, Alan takes us out on our arranged history tour where we tromp the hills and streets of Rome and listen to the multiple stories and facets of history about this ancient eternal city.

The Piperno family who still reside in the neighborhood of the Ghetto where they have lived for generations. Bruno and Celeste are friends of clients of Jeff, and they have invited us to dinner at the end of the fast of Yom Kippur, at the family home of the matriarch, Miriam. We are part of a group of 25 family members, including grandparents, uncles and aunts, children and grandchildren. I know that Jeff is thinking of his Oma that died earlier this year, and being included as part of this special and sacred ritual gives us a sense of family tonight. We feel blessed with our new amici and the kindnesses they have extended to us to include us in their lives during this short time.